3D printouts of your characters

[Mister Hassenpheffer]

I'm opening commissions for 3D printouts of your characters.

Solid white ABS, Non-painted, Standard in-game geometry. Current Caveats/limitations: No capes, trench coats or auras. MOST weapons can be reproduced.

I will need to meet you in Paragon chat for geometry capture.

PRICING VARIES: $25  50$ for simple characters.

The price will increase (obviously) for more complex characters I.E. wings, spider back packs but not too much. (Price increase due to time consumption; materials, shipping) Currently only accepting Paypal.

The goal is to generate funds for materials to continue research and development for poseable action figures. (Yes, that's still a thing, I've been busy)

PM me for details.

[Mister Hassenpheffer]

Development is continuing...



^^^ failed prototype

[saipaman]

What size scale are you using -- in game to real world.

[Mister Hassenpheffer]

Due to the nature of the joints I will most likely be using figures around 8-10 inches for all.  (That's a rough estimate)

I've done some experiments with Nylon for joints and unfortunately-





My equipment is unable to handle nylon, there is no way around that currently, so I will be outsourcing joints.

 



Those are coming from Japan. After I experiment with them I can provide more details regarding the sizes I will be able to provide.

[Mister Hassenpheffer]

Closing in on perfection

[eabrace]

That's coming together really nicely.

[Mister Hassenpheffer]

Behold: Aurora

Perfection achieved.

[therain93]

Looking quite awesome!


Edit: Hands look better than in-game ( ' ;

[Mister Hassenpheffer]

A little secret/history to the hands: Originally we were stuck with oven mitts, until the introduction of the crab/bane spiders, which have fingers and thumbs.

Those hands are the captured geometry of the spiders.

I plan on utilizing that for interchangeable hands for holding weapons or casting energy poses.

And thank you everyone for your support and kind words <3

[Garble]

Trying to make a Nova with twists. But I can't find the right tolerance and PLA doesn't seem to be very good for action figures.



Still, not bad for a first try.

[doc7924]

Figure looks great.

I am interested in how you make the costume - cloth or will it also be plastic pieces?

[Mister Hassenpheffer]

My approach for costumes needs to be something that takes advantage of the strengths of the printer, something with a good strong geometry.

I've said this many times. Things like capes or thin flowing fabric do NOT translate well.

That's not just with the current method of geometry capture, that's with the geometry involved. It's just a flat place using a projected image. Translated it would be a flat piece of plastic with no details if it even prints. As it stands even with good geometry there is an abundance of work that goes into solidifying a model to make it something that doesn't freak out the hardware.

These models were never meant to be 3D printed.

You would be far better off making your own capes out of fabric.

That's why I'd want to keep it as related to solid geometry as possible. Some costume pieces use a good solid representation of geometry. SOME jackets, alot of armor,  Those produce the BEST results. Skirts? No. Butt capes? Again: NO.    Scarfs=NO. 

If resin printing was an available option that might be different. MAYBE. 

I know that the joints for action figures definitely would be.

[Mister Hassenpheffer]

Trying to make a Nova with twists. But I can't find the right tolerance and PLA doesn't seem to be very good for action figures.



Still, not bad for a first try.

Not bad at all! Have you considered using or prototyping ball joints?

Back when I first got into 3D printing one of the biggest questions was what type of filament was I going to settle on.

I did hours of homework on ABS vs PLA and what pointed me towards ABS was durability.

Since then I've been a member of several 3d printing (3D printing for profit) groups on social media and a very big complaint was that PLA had a much lower melting point than ABS.

I've often read that peoples items were shipped either in or through environments where temperatures reached that of Godzilla's foul taint... arriving in a ruined PLA blob of "not what I ordered, give me a refund"

It sickens me to think that might happen to anyone that commissions me, especially from here. So... ABS it is.

Joints are an entirely different beast. I've recently had a back and forth "argument/discussion" about using various methods and materials (even flexible filaments) for making functional joints.

The problems encountered (no matter the type of design, mine or theirs) have always been: Joints will strip leaving them loose (unacceptable) or joints will break.  Both those problems exist even for flexible materials.

Resin would be the best way around that. The second best way, which is still expensive yet less expensive than resin printing is injection molded joints MADE for action figures.

[Garble]

Funny you say that.

One of my goals with getting my first 3D Printer was to try to make action figures based on City of Heroes captures and the Xevoz style design (I fell in love with these toys around the same time as I discovered COH and I think the low polly aesthetic really works well together).

One of the designers for that series made a similar ball-joint design available https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2222384

But so far I've found the PLA (which I'm kind of limited to with this printer) is too brittle and the resolution isn't smooth enough to grant the level of flexibility that Xevoz figures had.

So far I've successfully printed this skeleton which is also based on those ball joints https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2591724 And found that it barely snaps together and hardly moves.

I've already sunk hundreds of hours in SketchUp trying to get a COH/Xevoz hybrid to work and even spent quite a bit on Shapeways for a prototype

(Their "strong and flexible" material snaps better but is still too brittle)

My printer in theory can do ABS, but the few items I've tried to print warp way too much and usually fail.
I'm curious if it would work better since that's what Legos are made of. But if I really really want to commit I'll need to invest in better printer and build and enclosure to keep the heat and the stink inside.

For the Nova I modified the pivot joints from this model: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-rhino-26420
It would have worked better if my tolerance was tuned in and if the superglue I used to attach the bilateral divisions didn't dry so flexibly.

[Mister Hassenpheffer]

if it hasn't been said already: That is amazing!

A solution I found to avoid warping as much as possible is to slice the models into smaller parts and printing them one at a time in an enclosed environment (with a vent of course)

I suggest something simple:

Even in a heated environment, layers of ABS play "tug of war". Printing smaller parts one at a time decreases warping significantly; The idea is the less time spent jumping around the bed the better.

Reduced warping results:

Keep up the good work!

[Velluminous]

I'd love to know how you guys (Mister Hassenpheffer or Garble) managed to get the character models.  I've been trying OGLE with GLIntercept, but keep getting 0 byte .obj files. 
Any help you could offer on how you're getting these would be appreciated.

[Mister Hassenpheffer]

sent you a pm. >.>

[Mister Hassenpheffer]

Commission work:

[Mister Hassenpheffer]

Redoing this project, much happier with the layout and results.

[Mister Hassenpheffer]

Moving on to more advanced production