The controversy is over the fact that she sees nothing wrong with journalists being given free stuff by the people whose product they're reviewing. My guess is that she does not feel getting gifts from people makes you less objective about their products. I assure you, my employer, who does a lot of business with the US government, feels differently, as part of the many orientation videos I had to sit through included instructions on how to avoid even hinting that you were trying to bribe government decision-makers. Common courtesy things one might do in thanks just for somebody's time are no-nos. Free expensive electronics? Right out.
It's as much about the appearance as the substance, because even the appearance of bribery is a huge ethical concern.